Retinoids are classified into four main categories: retinyl esters, retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinoic acid. Over-the-counter options include the first three, while retinoic acid is only available by prescription. Price doesn’t equal strength - some of the most effective OTC retinols are budget-friendly, while luxury brands can charge hundreds for a fancy formula. But no matter the price, what really matters is understanding how these retinoids work. To make things easier, let’s imagine them as a family - each member with a unique personality and role in skincare.
Meet the Retinoid Family!
👨👩👧👦 Mr. Retinoic Acid - Father (he is a strict boss)
He’s the most powerful and direct - doesn’t waste time converting into anything because he’s already active. Just like a strict father, he gets things done quickly but can be harsh if you’re not ready for him (hello, redness and peeling!). Prescription - only because not everyone can handle his intensity right away. Be careful and be ready to meet him!
👩 Mrs. Retinaldehyde - Mother (she is the moment, she is it girl)
She’s closer to Dad (retinoic acid) but not as strict - still powerful, but with a gentler touch. Needs only one step to become active, making her an effective but slightly more patient figure in the family. She’s the go-to when Retinol (her son) isn’t strong enough but you’re not ready for Dad yet.
👦 Retinol - Older Son (a perfect child with glasses and strange haircut)
He’s the favorite child because he’s strong enough to get results but not as intimidating as his parents. Takes two steps to become active, meaning he works steadily and reliably, though he can still cause irritation. Everyone in skincare knows him - he’s the golden boy of anti-aging and acne treatments.
👶 Retinyl Esters - Younger Sister (a shy girl who loves to read nonstop)
The mildest and most forgiving - takes three steps to become active, meaning she works slowly and gently. Perfect for beginners and sensitive skin types because she doesn’t rush things. She’s the “introvert” of the family, often overlooked but still useful if you’re patient.
On top of that, let's meet their relatives as well. Prescription only Retinoids:
1. Adapalene: A mild prescription-strength retinoid, effective for acne with minimal irritation. Available OTC in lower concentrations.
2. Tretinoin (Retin-A): A potent form of pure retinoic acid used for acne and photo-aging but can cause peeling and dryness.
3. Isotretinoin (Accutane): The strongest oral retinoid, permanently shrinking oil glands to treat severe acne. Requires medical supervision due to side effects.
4. Trifarotene: Targets specific skin receptors, making it effective yet gentler for widespread acne treatment.
5. Tazarotene: The most potent topical retinoid, used for acne, psoriasis, and skin aging but highly drying.
Retinoid Alternatives (Retin-Alts): Bakuchiol → For those who can’t tolerate retinoids or want a pregnancy-safe option. A plant-based retinoid alternative offering similar anti-aging benefits with less irritation.